Water Along the Way

It had been all about the heat. Now water astounds and torments me. I was so excited to leave hot, hot South Dakota behind and head into Minnesota, the “Land of 10,000 Lakes.” I visited Voyageurs National Park, which is 40% water and claims to have 2,000 islands. I explored along the North Shore of Lake Superior, and I saw some amazing “rootbeer-colored” waterfalls. And I drove along the south shore as well, through Wisconsin and into the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. As I write this, I’ve just returned from a ferry trip under the Mackinac Bridge and to Mackinac Island.

But I also experienced some unexpected thunderstorms that soaked things I’d foolishly left outside. And then the water pump in the van stopped working so I no longer have running water. And one of the water jugs I’d bought in lieu of running water spilled and flooded the van.

And that is the way of things. From extreme heat to a soaking floor, soaking towels to mop the floor, and a soaking awning that blew down in a storm. 

But also a gorgeous lighthouse on the shore of the biggest freshwater lake on the planet. 

And then pounding rain on my metal roof reminding me that in the morning I’ll be parked in a giant mud puddle.

And so what crept into my mind one day was the water metaphor for the Tao, the Way, found in the Tao De Jing. Like water, the Tao enriches and nurtures existence, yet never claims credit. It dwells in the lowly places that all disdain, and yet it has the power to transform everything, not by artificial force but by unobtrusive gentleness.

And then I remembered that two of my backup water jugs were empty and needed to be filled. I’m not THAT philosophical!

I don’t know what has propelled me on the way through the states and national parks and past glorious rivers and lakes and waterfalls. I have had moments when I really didn’t want to deal with the van and its problems, or work and its problems, or young assholes in GIANT pickups who get right up on my ass because they think I won’t drive 80 and get up on their ass if they pass me (which obviously I would, and did). 

As I near the end of this trip, I am giving it more thought: Why? For months I have focused on the How. I have obsessed about the How! How will I get the van ready in time? How will I choose the best route to take? How will I find the place I’m supposed to park tonight? How will I know if it has decent cell service so I can work in the morning? But now that I have only a handful of days of “How” to deal with, I am slowly switching to Why.

And I don’t think there is an answer. We built a van. There are places to see. I am able to do it because of a confluence of wonderful gifts: financial ability, supportive friends and family, a job I can do from anywhere. So I did it. The Tao has the power to transform everything, not by artificial force but by unobtrusive gentleness. The Way gently led me to June 18, 2022, when I embarked. And it has gently led me on despite the few challenges, many of which have really just been my attitude that day. Except for the van flooding. That really sucked.

And now, photos (click to enlarge).

Voyageurs National Park. I had only one day here, and a boat tour was in order, so I was lucky to get a last-minute ticket on a National Park Service tour. The park is 40% water, made up of four large lakes, and it claims to have 2,000 islands. When I saw this tiny one, I could see why. I did spot an absolutely majestic bald eagle atop a tree on another island. When I first saw it through my binoculars, I actually said out loud to the person next to me: “Is that real?” And then it turned its head and flew off. Just stunning. I have only a mental picture, though, no photo.

North Shore of Lake Superior and the harbor of Grand Marais. I really enjoyed walking around the little town of Grand Marais. The weather was exquisite, and you can walk all the way out to this little lighthouse at the harbor, along a very precarious cement wall and some fascinating rock formations.

Waterfalls along the North Shore of Lake Superior. You really can’t believe your eyes when you see them. Apparently they turn this color because upstream the waters run through marsh land that releases tannins that color the water. They really are this color — photos are not enhanced! The foam and the water itself reminds one of a rootbeer float.

Beautiful views along the shores of Lake Superior.

A beautiful first glimpse of Lake Michigan as I head south, plus a ferry tour under Mackinac Bridge.

I’ve continued to snap the “Welcome to” signs as I enter each state. Wyoming was underwhelming because it was within Yellowstone National Park. Michigan’s sign is, well, I really think they need to rethink their motto. That’s the nicest thing I can say about it.