Getting Comfortable

On occasion, when I have traveled like I am now, staying in one place for an extended period, I’ve found myself drawn to the same couple of haunts over and over. The people there start to recognize me, especially if there is something distinctive about me, like that I am a foot taller than everyone and don’t speak the language. They say hello, try to practice their English with me. And as I cope with so much that is different and foreign and even overwhelming, being somewhere comfortable and familiar for a drink, a coffee, or a couple of homemade empanadas to go is, well, comfortable. (I’m trying really hard not to quote the Cheers theme song here….)

So I have a couple favorite places. One is the main square in this small town. It is called the Plaza de Armas and has a big Chilean flag flapping overhead, but it is actually quite tiny and intimate, with the same solo busker there every day and children blowing bubbles and running around giggling, a stray dog or two on occasion, and a view of the lake just about a block away. For now, at least, it is not overly crowded (I should expect more and more tourists to show up in the next few weeks), so I can always find a seat on a bench and listen to the busker. And he has recognized me. He sometimes asks the crowd if they want to hear something in English or Spanish, and then looks in my direction. I don’t answer, but if he sings in English, I do sing along quietly to myself. He also sometimes opens up the mic in a kind of spontaneous karaoke. I think it’s pretty brave of him because although some singers are OK, some have been so painfully terrible that half his audience flees the square.

(left) Plaza de Armas on a clear day. (right) My busker on a rainier day.

Another place is the “American Supermarket.” Yes, that’s in the name, and it happens to be right on the corner where I catch my bus downtown (I’ve finally learned where to catch the bus!). I have been to a couple different large supermarkets in town, and they are fully stocked with plenty of options. But familiar brand names? No, those are few and far between. Oreos. That’s a consistent one in the Chilean market. A few Quaker brand cereals. But not much else. The cleaning supplies aisle in Chilean supermarkets is especially daunting. There are many, many brands of cleaning liquids and powders to choose from, but I don’t recognize any, and I’m often not sure which are for laundry, dishes, your hands, or the floor.

So when I got off the bus one day right in front of the “American Supermarket,” obviously I went in. It was amazing! Every American brand! I bought Tide and Bounty and a couple brand name candy bars and granola. I am quite happy with my small bottle of Tide laundry detergent. It is so familiar and comfortable. I don’t even use Tide at home! But there is something very comfortable about having the Tide laundry detergent on laundry day.

The American Supermarket and some of its contents. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the American brand of paper towels is larger than the Chilean brand. Everything in excess!

Homemade empanadas from a couple different small shops are also becoming a favorite. My Spanish is good enough to discuss the fillings with the proprietor, and the empanadas are so easy to heat up at home for dinner. They fit my no-cooking lifestyle perfectly! The fresh produce is also very good here. Another favorite meal is tomato and avocado salad drizzled with balsamic with fresh bread from a panadería (bakery).

And my apartment is very comfortable. It has big windows that let in loads of sun (when it is actually sunny), a comfortable couch, a little veranda, and a second bedroom that I have turned into an office. There are days I am tempted to stay inside where I am not confused, embarrassed, or lost.

And so my last word will be about discomfort. I HAVE gotten out there and braved the confusion and embarrassment. I sat at a bar one Friday night, alone, for hours, in the hope that someone would talk to me. I tried not to stick my head in my phone, I smiled and made eye contact and gestured for people to sit in the comfy chairs across the table from my comfy chair. And finally some people did! A Chilean couple about my age, who did not speak a word of English, arrived for a drink and the view from this second-floor bar in front of the lake. And they had so much patience with my bad Spanish. We talked for what seemed like at least 45 minutes (it might have been less but felt longer because of the amount of time I spent struggling for the right words). I was so happy and proud of myself!

Sunset from the bar. The sun sets behind the town. So the view from here is of the sunset’s pink glow reflected against the mountain snow. It’s difficult to capture on my little phone camera, but when the setting sun hits the mountain just right, it is quite beautiful.

I’ve made other acquaintances who have helped take the sting out of the loneliness of being alone. But more about that next time. I’ll end with some amazing photos of an incredible guided tour of the mountains, rivers, and waterfalls of the area, on a day with the most idyllic weather so far!

A tour of Osorno (including a chairlift up to the snowline and the chance to hike around. I did NOT climb up that far!! The chairlift ride was pretty spectacular though). Our guide had photographic skills!! I never get photos of myself that I like this much!

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