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Ya “shegué”: Días 1-3 en Buenos Aires

Shhhhh!

I knew ahead of time about this “sh” thing in Argentinian and Uruguayan Spanish, but now that I’m trying to pronounce it in my own Spanish, it is so weird! The double el — “ll” — which is usually pronounced with the sound for “y” in English, is here pronounced as “sh.” Try it: cómo se shama? (como se llama?: “what’s it called?” or “what’s your name?”); cashe (calle, street); ya shegué (ya llegué, I’ve arrived). If you’ve learned Spanish yourself using the “y” sound for “ll” then you can imagine that it is hard to remember and adjust!

But yes, I am here, ya llegué. My first two days were getting checked in, getting acclimated, getting some rest, walking the city, and overcoming my fear of using my Spanish. I am checked into my mini studio apartment, home for the next 2 weeks, on the 10th floor in the neighborhood of Recoleta. Yesterday, I navigated the subways and bus systems. I got my “Sube” card – a transit card – and took in some sights. I also met a friendly Argentinian woman about my age whose English is certainly better than my Spanish. We may meet tonight for dinner or drinks. Today I had planned more outdoor sightseeing, but it is raining and extremely humid, so I am recalculating.

Tomorrow I head to Uruguay for three days, including my interview at an English language school in Montevideo. I am hoping it will not rain. Saturday and Sunday I plan to sightsee in Colonia del Sacramento and Punta del Este. I probably won’t post again until after that side trip. And I hope I will have better photos by then. So far, my pictures of Buenos Aires leave much to be desired! (click to enlarge)

A Word About Economy Plus

I don’t see how I will ever travel again like livestock squished in the back of the plane. In the leg from Atlanta to London last year, I spent 8 hours with a guy’s bicep resting on my boob. And he wasn’t even a large man! You all know what it’s like. I don’t need to explain.

For the last two long-haul trips I’ve taken, I sprang for Economy Plus. I’ve learned that not only do you get more leg room, but also Zone 2 boarding!

But the leg from Houston to Buenos Aires was something else — it was the business class of yore. Only 2 seats on the outer rows, a footrest!!!, a pillow and blanket, super wide seats, and separated from 1st and economy by structural demarcations, like our own little room. It was AMAZING. And…. nobody in the seat next to me!! You can imagine. I won’t boast further.

Benjamin Franklins

I knew ahead of time about the different exchange rates here in Argentina: the official rate (at banks and ATMs), the credit card rate, and the “Blue Dollar” rate. The Blue Dollar is a crisp, brand new $100 bill – if you look at a new Benjamin Franklin, it is a bit blue, and it has a blue vertical stripe on it. So I brought 2 with me. But only certain places will exchange at the Blue Dollar rate, and some, I read, are a bit sketchy. I didn’t exchange at the airport or at the first cambio that was suggested (I checked there: approx $1000 pesos = $1 USD). I was a tiny bit apprehensive about pulling out my Benjamins just anywhere, but I found a Western Union that felt safe, so I got $1200 pesos to $1 USD. Woohoo, I got 16 cents more per dollar! For $100, that’s $16 more than the official. Good grief. It sounds like more when you say it in pesos.

So now I have $120,000 pesos. The credit card rate is basically the same as the Blue Dollar rate, so I’ll probably mostly use it. I guess I’ll be leaving big tips.

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